(Author's note: as will become painfully apparent very shortly, I wrote this blog quite a while ago. Friday morning to be exact (so please understand all relative terms as if this were Friday). I fully intended to publish it Friday night when I got to the hostel. However, upon my arrival, I discovered that my computer had decided that the internet at this hostel was against its religion, and refused to acknowledge its existence. And so this blog was trapped on my laptop. Whoops. So upon my return to Valencia, I am publishing it. Sorry bout all that.)
Good morning, all!
And when I say good morning, I do mean morning. It’s before
7 and still dark here, and I’m on a train to Madrid.
I write a lot of these blogs on trains to Madrid. It works.
So let’s see. I got back from Lisbon very late Sunday night,
and, tragically, my Asian food place was closed, so I just went back and went
to bed instead. It was so sad. I really wanted Asian food.
So then Monday morning we didn’t have our 9am class, but I
went over to the school earlier than normal, because it was the first day of my
TA position, and I wanted to know where it was, since by the time I got out of
class it would have already started. And thus begins a long and confusing tale,
the ending of which only happened yesterday. So, yeah. Hold on.
According to the email- no, wait, we have to go further
back. So in order to get this TA thing, I got an email from Dr. Pennock, the
English professor who runs the tandem program (remember him? Really British,
very funny.) on a listserv of TAs, which I assumed was just the native English
speakers at the university. This email said that Dr. DiNapoli (another English
teacher) needed native speaker TAs in his class. I emailed Dr. DiNapoli, he
said that I could come to his English VIII class from 12-2 on Mondays and help
out. I have class until 12:15, but he said I could just come over afterwards.
He said that the location of this class was Aulario (building. I mean, like,
don’t use that to say building in Spanish, but in the context of this story, it
means building.) So Aulario I, classroom M-15. Ok. That’s the background, back
to Monday.
So I have looked Aulario I up on a map and I find it without
much of a problem, but when I get there, there is no M-15 listed on the
building map. Finally, I look so confused that someone who works there comes to
ask me what I’m looking for. I tell him M-15, and he tells me that it is
actually in Aulario V and gives me directions. So I go to Aulario V and sure
enough, there is room M-15 and the schedule on the door says that Dr.
DiNapoli’s English VIII class meets there from 12-2. Mission accomplished.
Now, you can probably guess by now that something is not
going to go as planned. You would be right.
But sadly, life is not a linear narrative, so I spent the next
hour and a half in film class. We watched the movie el día de la bestia (day of
the beast), which is about a priest who discovers that the apocalypse (like the
one from Reveltations) is going to take place in Madrid on Christmas eve of
1995. Inevitably, he discovers this on like December 20th 1995. So
there’s a mad dash around Madrid to try to sin as much as he can so that he can
sell his soul to the devil and find the location of the birth of the antichrist
so he can kill the antichrist and stop the Apocalypse. It was… interesting.
More than anything the portrayal of the devil fascinated me.
It was very much a pop theology devil, but it lacked a lot of the traditional
influences of Dante and Milton on the portrayal. Like, it didn’t show him as a
fallen angel, nor a prisoner in Hell, but a malevolent force that is God’s
opposite. So actually very Zoroastrian. That isn’t very typical, usually it’s
more of a blend, so I found it very interesting.
Of course, watching this movie took a little bit longer than
the normal class, so I didn’t get to classroom M-15 until 12:30. I opened the
door and saw… Dr. Pennock. He was very polite and very British in informing me
that he had no clue who I was or why I was there. I gave him a very mini
sparknotes version of what I was doing, and asked where Dr. DiNapoli was, and
he said that Dr. DiNapoli was not here, but wouldn’t I sit down and help out.
So I did. I still don’t actually know what happened to Dr.
DiNapoli’s class. I don’t know if I was in the wrong place or there at the
wrong time, or if the schedule was wrong. In fact, I am only marginally sure
that Dr. DiNapoli exists.
But I helped out anyway. The students were discussing Brave
New World and dystopia, so I sat in on their small-group discussions and took
notes on grammar mistakes I heard. I also chatted with the students a little
bit, which was interesting, but not actually enlightening as to what on earth
was going on. We finished up the class with a TED talk on moral absolutism,
which was fascinating, though difficult to understand, even as a native English
speaker. Oh, I should probably mention that the level of English of some of
these students was so impressive. They were good. They made mistakes, but not
many. Anyway, so we watched the TED talk, and Dr. Pennock said to shoot him an
email and he would figure out what happened and how I wound up in his class.
So then I went back to the dorm and did homework and chilled
and went to Elena’s class. We talked about Picasso and his blue and rose
periods, which was interesting. I like Picasso’s cubism, but I think I prefer
his less abstract paintings. There’s something really nice about the colors,
and I think in art I tend to enjoy realism, but even more, like a soft-focused
realism. Impressionism when viewed from a distance and that kind of stuff, and
that’s a lot of Picasso’s early works. Plenty obvious what the subject is, but
just different enough to make you want to look again. It also reminds me that
for all his distorted figures, Picasso really could paint. I firmly believe
that, like it takes an intelligent person to successfully play a dumb
character, it takes a very talented painter to break conventions, and that’s
Picasso. Not that cubism or modern art is dumb, but I know I have heard the “I
could do that” attitude towards it sometimes. Actually, my favorite definition
of modern art is “I could do that. But you didn’t.”
So then we had a meeting and got our sweatshirts, dumb
pictures of which are probably on Facebook (update from real time. They are indeed on Facebook, and very, very dumb), and went for ice cream. It was just
a little too cold outside to really be ice cream weather, but ice cream is
always good. Then I came back and did
more of the homework and chilling and such.
I also got an email from Dr. Pennock. I had emailed him
before this whole insanity started about coming into a class and basically just
speaking to the students, because there are a lot of British accents in the
classrooms, but not a lot of American ones, and he wanted them to hear a
different accent. He thought that I had
gotten somehow mistaken and was trying to do that when I wound up in his
classroom, but he also said that if I wanted to come back to his English VIII
class (because the class I walked into was English VIII, just… a different
teacher. I think.) and help out that I could.
So I emailed Dr. DiNapoli and explained to him what had
happened. I asked what had happened with the class, and told him that Dr.
Pennock had offered to let me come back to his class, but that I didn’t want to
abandon his class if that indeed existed.
Tuesday we had our lit class, and since she’s heard so much
about it, Alexz decided to come and sit in. We talked about early 20th
century Spanish literature, and the Spanish “edad de plata” which is the
“silver age” because Spain already had a Golden age, and then they got a little
silver one. And in that edad de plata there was a bunch of stuff, a Generation
of 98, Modernism, the Avant Garde movements, the generation of 27. It was
crazy. And then the Spanish Civil War happened, so that’s a happy ending.
So then after class I went to the train station and bought a
ticket for Granada. That was interesting. I bought my ticket just fine, but
Jess who has never bought a ticket before needed my help. Unfortunately, at that point, I was still
trying to get my own tickets, so I was bouncing back and forth between two
ticket windows trying to translate. Once my transaction was over though, there
were still more adventures in store. First, the train was much more expensive
than Jess initially thought, and then the guy tried to sell her a ticket for
Tuesday night, not for Thursday night, and then when we communicated to him
what day she wanted the train to leave, he told her that there was no train
that day. Which seemed kind of odd to us. So we’re desperately trying to work
out the best way to get her to Granada, when it turns out that the computer
system is messed up, and they get that fixed. At which point, it turns out
there is a night train to Granada Thursday. So we’re saved. In reward for a job
well done, we get crepes.
We then went back and ate lunch, and went to climb the
torres de Quart, which look a lot like the torres de Serranos. Except there
weren’t people there and there are more cannon marks. It was fun. We then all
went back because we had an essay due Wednesday. I basically spent the rest of
the day working on that essay. Not terribly exciting, I know, but this is a
STUDY abroad, not just a run around Spain and Portugal on weekends abroad.
Also, at some point Tuesday afternoon, since Dr. DiNapoli
had not responded to me, I emailed Dr. Pennock back and explained in more
detail what had happened. I told him that if I didn’t have anything for Dr.
DiNapoli, I would love to come back and help in his class.
So I went to bed and set my alarm for 9:03, because class
started on Wednesday at 10:45.
Except class on Wednesday starts at 9.
Which is a fact I forgot until my alarm went off Wednesday
at 9:03.
I was out of my room by 9:06.
So I ran downsteairs and double checked that we did indeed
have class, and then proceeded to run the mile to class and made it before
9:30, which was still 1/3 of the class, but I did not miss as much as I could
have. And I apologized profusely. We talked a little bit about the transition
from Dictatorship to Democracy and the coup d’etat that happened in 1981. After
class I went up to our professor and apologized again, and explained what
happened. He seemed to be Ok with it, but I still am going to try not to repeat
that trick again.
Then in film class we discussed the context for día de la
bestia, and what happened in the movie. It was also, sadly, as we found out at
the end of class, our last day with that teacher. Monday starts the second half
of our film class, and there will be a new teacher. We all liked both the guys
when we met them at the beginning of the semester, but I think we will all miss
this teacher. He was a lot of fun
In between classes, I got an email from Dr. Pennock. By the
way, I still haven’t gotten a response from Dr. DiNapoli. But Dr. Pennock
explained that I got added to the TA list by mistake. It is a listserv for EU
students who are getting internal credit for the time they spend, and that he
did not want me to feel obligated to help out, especially since I need to
practice my Spanish more than my English. He did, however, say that if I was
still interested, I could do a speaking thing for his class to help them get
used to American accents.
Then in Elena’s class we talked more about Picasso. We
covered his cubist period very quickly, and then were given pictures from this
period, and told to analyze them, identify what was in them, and name them. The
first ones were very easy. The subjects were distorted, but still recognizable,
and it was fun to see those paintings. Then we moved on to the very early
cubist works, which are completely and totally unintelligible. Jess and I got a
picture of a man (apparently, we only found this out later) and managed to come
up with an absolutely brilliant and totally made up analysis of the picture as
an homage to the Trojan War. We found a horse and skulls beside the horse, to
represent both the people inside and the cost of the war on Troy. We found
ships that the Greeks sailed in on, and even the walls of the city. It was
truly impressive how ridiculous this was. It was a lot of fun, even if Picasso’s
early cubist stuff isn’t my favorite.
I then went back to my room and skyped Mimi for her birthday
and worked on homework and watched some TV. Then I went to dinner, and
discovered that there was not much to eat. Fortunately, we were going out for
tapas as a group Wednesday night. It was a lot of fun. Those of us who had lost
at bowling went with our hair done up like falleras (I don’t even know how to
describe it. I took a picture of Alexz’s.) but I don’t have enough hair for
that, so I got to wear a fallas bandana. We went out, but the tapas were both
expensive and not to my taste, so I walked over to Wok to Walk, the Asian place
I had been meaning to go, and got some food before returning to tapas. After a
little longer at tapas, I went back to my room and ate my noodles and watched
Mythbusters. A lovely evening.
So yesterday I managed to wake up on time for my classes,
and went to lit. We kept talking about the edad de plata, but also got off on a
surprisingly long tangent about… oh something or other. It was fun. We also
read some Greguerías, which are… they’re these little compositions of one or
two lines and they are supposed to be “metaphor plus humor”. And they’re great.
They range from poetic: “Dreams are the depository of lost objects.” To
strange: “And what if ants were Martians already established on Earth?” To
black humor: “The person most surprised at an inheritance is the one who has to
leave it.” To philosophical: “He who is in Venice is lying to himself to think
that he is in Venice. He that dreams that he is in Venice is the one who is in
Venice.” To the just plain amusing: “An astronomer is a man who falls asleep
looking at the stars.” And I really enjoyed that. (please note, those were all
very bad translations of Greguerías of Ramón Gómez de la Serna done by me on the fly.)
Then I came back and started working on a timeline of
important events in Spanish literature to begin a study guide. That class is
hard, and there’s a lot to remember, so I’m making a document for the people in
it to use to study, and I figured that timelines wouldn’t be a bad place to
start, so I did that for a shockingly long while, then I did laundry and skyped
a couple of my friends, and got all prepared for my journey to Granada.
I also emailed Dr. Pennock back and, as professionally as
possible, expressed the sentiment “You’re doing what I want to do for my job.
Please just let me come in and at least watch.” I got a response very promptly,
and I’ll be back in English VIII on Monday.
This morning, my alarm went off at 4:45, and the first thing
I heard once I turned it off was the sound of people getting back in from the
bars and clubs, which to me seemed pretty unbelievable. But they were laughing,
so it sounded like they were having a good time. And they had been leaving just
as I was going to sleep.
So I woke up and packed and got ready and checked some last
minute things, and left the dorm at 5:45.
It was absolutely the most silent and empty I have ever seen this city.
I got in from Lisbon last Sunday after 11pm, and there were people everywhere,
but at 6am on a Friday, there was nothing. The only reason I saw people for the
first 5 minutes of my walk, was because it led past the market, and the first
vendors were arriving, but only maybe 2. The coffee shops and pastelerias (umm…
bakeries?) were still dark and closed up tight. It looked more like 3 or 4am
than almost 6. As I got near the train station, there were more people, a few
cars, but I felt very comfortable jaywalking nonetheless. The sky was still
very dark, and even in the city there were a few stars. It was a perfect
temperature, not quite warm or cold, but just there, and there was a light
breeze, like by the ocean at night. It was very strange, but also serene and
lovely.
I arrived safely at the train station and got on the AVE to
Madrid, where I wrote most of this blog and watched the sunrise. I then got on
the train to Granada, and finished the blog, and here I’ll be for another 4
hours.
Amor,
Katie
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